Size Ladder Guide: How to Order Blank Apparel Sizes
Most decorators order the wrong size distribution on their first production drop, buying too many XLs and not enough mediums, and the fix is a simple size ladder based on actual market data for each apparel category.
What a Size Ladder Is
A size ladder is the ratio of sizes you order within a style. A 100-piece order might be 5 XS, 15 S, 25 M, 30 L, 20 XL, 5 XXL. That ratio is the size ladder. Getting it right means fewer leftover units in the sizes nobody wanted and fewer stockouts in the sizes that sold immediately.
Size ladders vary by category, by demographic, and by fit type. A unisex traditional fit tee has a different ladder than a women's fitted tee or a unisex youth tee. Using the wrong ladder for your category is one of the most consistent ways to overstock units you cannot move.
Typical Distributions by Category
Unisex adult tees (traditional fit, general market): XS 3%, S 12%, M 27%, L 30%, XL 20%, 2XL 8%. This distribution skews L-heavy because unisex traditional fit garments are often sized up by customers who prefer a relaxed fit.
Fashion fit unisex (Bella 3001, Next Level 3600): XS 5%, S 18%, M 30%, L 28%, XL 15%, 2XL 4%. Fashion fit customers size down relative to traditional fit, so medium and small take a larger share. Women's fitted: XS 8%, S 25%, M 30%, L 25%, XL 10%, 2XL 2%. Women's sizing peaks at medium and small.
Adjusting for Your Market
These distributions are starting points. Your actual market may differ. If you are decorating for a collegiate athletic team, the ladder skews larger (more XL and 2XL). If you are decorating for a yoga studio, the ladder skews smaller (more XS and S). Track your sell-through by size on every drop and adjust your ladder over two or three production runs.
For event shirts where you know your attendee demographics, ask the organizer for rough attendee size data. A corporate event with a predominantly male attendee list has a different size ladder than a women's fitness event.
Avoiding Overstock
The most common overstock error is ordering too many 2XL and 3XL units at the start. Extended sizes are slower-turning in most markets. Start with fewer extended sizes than you think you need. You can always reorder. Overstock in extended sizes is hard to clear.
Golden DTF has no minimums and free shipping over $49, which means you can reorder small quantities to fill out a size run without penalty. This removes the incentive to over-order extended sizes as insurance. Order conservatively on extended sizes and restock if they sell out.